After spending 10 days in Kyoto, it was time to say goodbye and head east to our next destination, Gora.
We sent our luggage onwards to our hotel in Tokyo. We packed enough clothes for our 2 nights in Gora. We caught the Shinkansen from Kyoto Station to Odawara Station. We ended up taking the Kodama line (this is a type of Shinkansen train that stops more frequently.)
Again we simply purchased the base fare and didn’t bother reserving seats.
It took us about 3 hours to get to the Odawara Station. (There we were picked up by our hotel shuttle bus.)
I’d read a lot about Hakone and how spectacular it was with views of Mt. Fuji, and gorgeous fall color. It is a very touristy region for both domestic and international tourists, and when I was looking for hotels, I found it pricey.
We opted to spend only 2 nights at the Hotel Indigo in Gora. I selected it because on the map it looks really close to Gora Station. Of course, what I didn’t realize at the time was how hilly Gora and the Hakone region is. Yes, our hotel and Gora Station were in walking distance if you liked to get a work out. (I’m super impressed with us that we did walk the path from our hotel to Gora Station, up what my body felt was at least 1,000 stairs. No joke.)
To be fair, the Hotel Indigo does offer complimentary car rides from Gora Station to the hotel, and it has a free shuttle bus that picks up guests from Odawara station and brings them back to the hotel. (And vice versa.)
Accommodation
Hotel Indigo catered exclusively for western tourists. Our rooms were spacious, with a private onsen included.
It was great to soak in it after a day of sightseeing.
It included breakfast each morning. For dinner, we reserved a table for both nights at the hotel restaurant.
Transport
The Hakone area is not walkable. It is (let me say it again) very hilly, and the roads are narrow, and busy with buses carrying tourists from one destination to another.
We purchased the Hakone Free Pass which comes in two options – a 2 day and a 3 day. They are available for purchase at Odawara Station. We got these passes. The buses that accept the Hakone Free Passes are brightly colored, and have signs on them showing that they are for tourists. The passes don’t work on the non-tourist buses.
Mt. Fuji from Moto Hakone
We caught the bus “S” (using our Hakone Free Passes) from Gora station to Kwokonen, and after a brief wait, we caught the “H” bus to Moto-Hakone. The road is narrow and winds through forest. When we arrived at Moto Hakone, I wanted to cry. It was overcast and gloomy and Mt. Fuji was hiding behind thick clouds.
And then (after a lot of pouting) the skies cleared, and there she was…
And…
There are brightly colored pirate ships that ferry tourists around Lake Ashi. We opted not to go on them. (They looked crowded, and I thought the whole thing quite silly.) Instead we went to the Narakuwa Art Museum directly across the road. It’s quite high up, and it has a viewing lounge and cafe with gorgeous views of Mt. Fuji. (If you show your Hakone Free Pass, you get a discount on the Museum entry fee.)
After a latte and a snack at the museum’s cafe, and a browse in the museum’s gift shop where we purchased unusual gifts, we decided it was time to head back. Most tourists catch the pirate ships back, and do a circle involving cable car and ropeway rides, black hard boiled eggs etc. We decided to simply catch the bus back, but stop at the Hakone Open Air Museum. We ate a very nice and reasonably priced buffet lunch at the museum before heading out for a gorgeous wander around.
Then, we caught a train back to Gora Station, and walked down to Hotel Indigo. We were glad to soak in our room’s private onsen. It felt so good.
Next up? How we managed a 3-night stay in Tokyo that was quiet and peaceful, uncrowded, and full of autumn foliage.
