I am blogging from Pagosa Springs, Colorado. Pagosa Springs has a very nice library. We’ve plugged in the lap top. While I am blogging Kevin is browsing. Please check out the photo album as I have added some photo’s to it.
This next post I typed last night in our motel room in Cortez. So here goes…
As I write this we are sitting in our motel room in Cortez, Colorado. What a wonderful couple of days we have had. My last post had us setting off for House Rock Road to check access to the Wave. We had bought permits for the following day (Wednesday.) Well, we did set out on that road. We felt most optimistic since the road had dried out considerably. That’s when things started going from bad to worse – the road went from a nice tan color to a dark black forest chocolate cake brown. It had warmed up enough to melt the snow that had fallen. We could tell the difference the minute Arnie’s wheels touched its surface. This was not nice mud to play in. Parts of the road had been washed away. We then thought it prudent to get out of there. The only way we could do so without getting stuck was to reverse. It was almost impossible to try and steer- we kept going all over the place.
We made it to safety, and then decided what we were going to do next. We decided to give the Wave a miss this year, and rather concentrate on adventures to the south of us. The long range forecast was another cause for concern: heavy snow falls and storms were forecast over much of Utah, and Colorado Saturday and Sunday. We had to be careful where we ended up – for our return journey home. We decided to scrap the Wave, and head for Monument Valley. We were very disappointed. Both of us had been looking forward to the Wave for an entire year. But we just couldn’t risk it.
En route to Monument Valley we thought we’d stop off at Antelope Canyon. Antelope Canyon is a beautiful slot canyon. The Navajo offer guided tours into the canyons. It is easy to get to – just outside Page.
The Roadtrip Gods were against us. It was not to be. Antelope Canyon was closed due to flash floods. Given the amount of water that was around I could well believe it. It is very unusual to get flash floods in November. Flash floods are more usual in the spring or early summer.
Very close to the entrance to Antelope Canyon we took pictures of a massive power station. The area around it is beautiful pristine desert. You can see this blight from miles away. It is so ugly it should get an award all by itself.
Our aim was to get to Goosenecks State Park to camp there that night (Tuesday). Goosenecks is past Monument Valley, and Mexican Hat. The road is well sign posted and paved. It ends at a parking lot, and restroom. This was our make shift campsite. We had the place to ourselves. The parking lot is surrounded by extremely flat land to the one side of it. On the other in an arc is a railing and below it the most spectacular site imaginable. Since it was dark we waited for morning to take in our own private view: a view looking down at a magnificent carved river winding back in on itself into a "gooseneck".
We ate breakfast and broke camp. We decided to spend the day (Wednesday) in Monument Valley. Monument Valley was going to close on Thanksgiving (Thursday).
We arrived at Monument Valley at about 11:30 am. I explored the gift shop while Kevin cleaned his camera’s sensor. I asked about horse rides since I thought it would be a novel way of seeing the valley, but the price they were asking was day light robbery. I managed to get a few goodies that were not too pricey, and did not say "Made in Hong Kong" and met Kevin at the car.
Monument Valley has really good dirt roads. Access is solely by car, and the residents do not like people simply wandering off. Guided tours are offered which take you into some restricted areas. Along the route residents have stalls set up where they sell cheaper jewelry than what you find in the gift shop. It is not sterling silver, but it is very pretty. I bought some more necklaces, some earrings and a hair clip. We did the route twice to take advantage of the ever-changing light. We had our picnic lunch of grilled turkey and cheese while we watched the light change and soften. The park closed at 5pm.
We camped that night at our campsite at Goosenecks. This time we had company but we did not mind – there was room for everyone. Kevin set the alarm before sunrise because he wanted to take advantage of the early dawn light to photograph the goosenecks. We had breakfast and then decided to head to Mexican Hat (actually retracing our steps a little). Mexican Hat is named after a column of rocks that looks like a Mexican Hat. There is a dirt road access to Mexican Hat Rock and you can see evidence of ATV Yahoos racing all over the place. Super! Our ulterior motive for heading back to Mexican Hat was actually to take advantage of the gas station’s restroom. (There are simply no words!)
Then we drove up Moki Dugway to the top of Cedar Mesa. This is a windy switch back pass that takes you to the top of an enormous mesa. The views are spectacular. You can see Monument Valley in the distance, and closer your look down on the Valley of the Gods. At the top of Cedar Mesa there is access to a very nice informal campsite. We drove there and had fun poking around at the top. Past snow melt had left large still pools at the top. Sheets of ice covered the water. The edge fell off into steep vertical cliffs.
From Cedar Mesa we continued on highway 261 where we met highway 95. We drove west on 95 to Natural Bridges National Monument. This is a gorgeous little visited park. We stopped off at the visitor center to use the facilities and to see whether we could get a weather report. It was closed because of Thanksgiving. We decided to have a quick drive around the park. Natural bridges are caused by water erosion, and arches by wind. There are a number of natural bridges that you can see from special sites set up in the park. You can also hike down the slopes to take a closer look. Unfortunately we did not have time for that. This is definitely a spot to return to for more exploring.
We then headed for Mule Canyon. Mule Canyon is off highway 95. There is a sign posted Mule Canyon sign which will take you to some reconstructed Anasazi ruins. This is for general public consumption. It is interesting but quite tame. For something a little more authentic we strongly recommend you hike up the south fork of Mule Canyon.
Access is off the highway and just east of the turn off to the Mule Canyon parking lot. This road is BLM road #263. This area is a fee area, and you can pay the fee at the entrance. Drive down the dirt road and the trail to the south fork of Mule canyon is on the bridge. People do park there. I recommend you continue and park at a turn out at the top of the hill. This turn out can also be used as an informal camp site.
We arrived at Mule Canyon at about 2pm. We immediately packed a small day pack and headed into the canyon. The path is unimproved and quite easy. There are a number of unsupervised Anasazi ruins scattered down the canyon. There are no signposts so keep a sharp look out for cliff dwellings. All are unsupervised, and unmarked. Care must be taken not to disturb the ruins. Do not take anything. The first ruin is approximately one mile into the canyon. Access is easy.
We spent the rest of the afternoon photographing the first ruin. We camped at the turn out at the top of the road. The next morning after a quick breakfast we packed some lunch and headed out for south fork for the day. We explored further into the canyon. This is a magical place. The path follows a small winding stream. Evidence of past flash floods can be seen everywhere: a constant reminder of nature’s force. The second ruin is approximately one mile further. You can hike to the top, but we could not find a way to get access. I thought the dead tree access quite optimistic and decided I was close enough.
The third ruin we spotted is 3.5 miles in. Access is moderately difficult and ends below a dead tree makeshift ladder. Kevin was the brave one and scampered up and managed to get closer. He took some great pictures for me. I chickened out. The views from the cliff dwellings are really spectacular. I really enjoyed sunning myself on a large boulder, imagining that an ancient Puebloan may have been doing something similar 900 years ago.
Care and common sense should be used at all times. Ask at the local ranger stations about canyon conditions and weather forecasts.
We spent about 6 hours in the canyon and had a splendid time. We were especially lucky with our weather. Despite the weather forecast (which was snow) our day remained clear with gorgeous blue skies.
Maybe it was the hike today, or the fact that I have spent 3 consecutive nights camping and feeling dirty, but the image of a nice hot bath and a gigantic burger would not go away. After we got back from our hike, we drove here, to Cortez where I had both.
Try Main Street Brewery in Cortez for its scrummy burgers. Our motel is comfortable, and it has internet access. All being well I hope to post this on my blog tonight, or tomorrow morning.
The next step is really up to the weather. Weather forecast for both tomorrow and Sunday seems pretty grim- wide spread snow. We were planning a quick visit to Mesa Verde but we may forego that and rather decide to head for home. It is no fun driving through a blizzard
